Muck Paradise

Lembeh strait is often called the muck diving capital of the world.

For the uninitatied, muck diving is a term for diving not in colourful coral reef areas, but in barren bottoms, which is often sand, or coral rubbles, or even silty and muddy sand. Hence the term muck. It doesn’t sound very interesting, but here is a place where people look for all sorts of exotic creatures, the weird, the rare, the special and unusual, the ones that are not normally found in the usual coral reef environment. People flock to muck diving areas such as Lembeh armed with cameras to take photos of these wonderful monsters.

Lembeh is located in North Sulawesi, Indonesia (note: Sulawesi is often called Celebes in maps), a 12 km long strait separating the mainland Sulawesi and the Lembeh island. At the southern part of the strait is a town called Bitung, which is a quite busy port town. As a consequence the strait is quite a busy sea way with often a big barge carrying logs cruising slowly by. The channel is narrow and shallow and the more than 30 dive sites are located in both sides. The mainland side has mostly black volcanic sand bottom while the Lembeh island side often has creamy coloured carbonate sand, which is derived from the older rock that formed the land. This older rock is covered in the mainland by lava and lahar poured forth by the volcanoes dotting the landscape.

In most sites the bottom would be gently sloping or gently undulating, and rather featureless. Sometimes it felt like underwater desert and we would doubt that we’d see anything. But then the guides would start showing us here and there the strange critters. Sometimes the first few minutes were uneventful, but we normally search around eagerly, then critters after critters suddenly appear as our eyes get used to spotting the unusual. In most dives we spot maybe about half a dozen creatures from our celebrity critter list, along with tens of the background singers. We never did come back without anything to tick off the list.

In every site, the bottom would be characteristically strewn with rubbish. Bottles, cans, shoes, bags, plastics, you name it, all sorts of humanity’s refuse can be found here. It sound so untempting but the critters in Lembeh have somehow adjusted themselves to human carelessness. In this dive we saw an octopus making a tea cup its home. In one of the books on Lombok there’s a photo of a hermit crab using a bottle instead of a shell as its mobile home. Various juvenile forms of fish could be found hiding in cans, bottles and rags.

This was our second visit to the area. We were here only for one day in 2005, on a side trip from diving in Bunaken. We were hooked. This time we allowed 3 dive days to explore Lembeh, but even this is not enough. To cover the diversity of the area we need probably a full week of diving. For even though people come here for muck diving, Lembeh also has some coral reefs and wrecks which sound so interesting. But that will have to be done in our next trip. This time we focus solely on muck diving and macro photography.

The celebrity list is long in Lembeh. The highlights include the following:
1. The frogfishes: hairy frogfish (Antennarius hispidus), striped frogfish (Antennarius striatus), giant frogfish (Antennarius comersonii), painted frogfish (Antennarius pictus), warty (or clown) frogfish (Antennarius maculatus). We met the giant, the painted and the warty types only this time. But we did see the striped and the hairy ones in our previous trip.

2. The scorpionfishes, lionfishes and leaf fishes: weedy scorpionfish (Rhinopias frondosa) and its smooth cousin (Rhinopias eschmeyeri), ambon scorpionfish (Pteroidichthys amboinensis), Spiny devilfish (Inimicus didactylus), leaf scorpionfish (Taenianotus triachantus), Cockatoo waspfish (Ablabys taenianotus), stonefish (Synanceia verrucosa). We met the smooth Rhinopias, the devilfish, leaf fish and waspfish, along with the usual scorpionfishes – tasseled scorpionfish (Scorpaenopsis oxycephala) and a scorpionfish that’s maybe a shortfin scorpionfish (Scorpaenodes brachyptera) and the hordes of lionfishes – common lionfish (Pterois volitans), spotfin lionfish (Pterois antennata), zebra lionfish (Dendrochirus zebra) and shortfin lionfish (Dendrochirus brachypterus).

3. Other strange looking fishes, some ugly, some beautiful: the flying gunnard (Dactyloptena orientalis), pegasus seamoth (Eurypegasus draconis), Fingered Dragonet (Dactylopus dactylopus), Mandarinfish (Synchiropus splendidus ), Jawfish (Opistognathus randalli), banggai cardinalfish (Pterapogon kauderni) and stargazers (Uranoscopus sp). The family of boxfishes and pufferfishes are also resident here, including the yellow boxfish (Ostracion cubicus), Longhorn cowfish (Lactoria cornuta), fine spotted porcupinefish (Diodon holocanthus), blotched porcupinefish (Diodon liturosus), rounded porcupinefish (Cychlichthys orbicularis), black spotted porcupinefish (Diodon hystrix) and various file fish. A celebrity list of Lembeh would also include the barramundi cod (Cromileptes altivelis) of course. Flounders and stingrays are also easy to find here.

4. Pipefishes and sea horses: ghost pipefishes (which we unfortunately did not meet this time), different types of pipefishes and sea horses, both the normal size and the pygmy ones. This time we only met the normal sized thorny seahorse (Hippocampus histrix), but in the previous visit we saw the cute and super tiny Hippocampus bargibanti pygmy sea horse.

5. Various eels, of which the highlight would be ribbon eel (Rhinomuraena quaesita), in their yellow, blue and black variety of colour (colour difference depending of gender and age), banded snake eel (Myrichthys colubrinus), napoleon eel (Ophichthus bonaparti) and block-finned snake eel (Ophicthus melanochir). This time we saw all of the above, along with myriads of moray eels, except for the napoleon eel. One of the banded snake eels we saw, whose colouration mimics the highly poisonous sea snake, ran away from us and dived into the sand. It was amazing to watch how it plunged head first into a mound of soft silty sand and how its long body disappeared centimeter by centimeter in just seconds.

6. Octopuses, squids and cuttle fishes. We saw various squids and cuttlefishes here, but the stars would have to be the octopus who have made a tea cup its home and the Wunderpus (Wunderpus photogenicus). Various baby octopuses and baby squids are to be found usually during the night dive. Various shrimps, crabs and mantis shrimps are easily found. Various nudibranch, from the common Phyllidia types to the exotic hairy Flabellina rubrolineata, Pteraeolidia ianthina, Phyllodesmium longicirrum and the translucent Gymnodoris ceylonica and Halgerda batangas which we saw this time, and other interesting ones we saw the last time.

The highlight of the invertebrates though, apart from the octopuses, would have to be the Electric Clam or Flame Scallop (Lima scabra) which we found to be hiding in a crack in the rocky wall. It seemed to be busy zapping away with its blue lightning bolts of electricity at its prey, and I was wondering if the electric shock would be causing pain to human divers. But I have since found out from one of the sites in the internet that it wasn’t “electricity” at all. It was actually bioluminescent streaks, and the creature is actually a filter feeder. Huh deceiving creatures!

Definitely Lembeh is a paradise of some sort. Muck paradise is not a gorgeous name, but to muck divers it is a beautiful name. We enjoyed so much diving there and we also enjoyed our stay at Kungkungan Bay Resort. The resort is run efficiently by a Brit couple and manned by a group of eagle eyed local dive guides who can spot even the deeply camouflaged creatures. The wooden bungalows and rooms at the resort are very comfortable and the staff are very friendly, attentive and helpful. This resort and its dive center also impressed us by their commitment to conservation. The small bay in front of the resort has been protected for 16 years and the result shows. Corals grow luxuriantly there, like an oasis in an otherwise dry landscape. Guests are not allowed to wear gloves and their dive guides do not disturb the animals excessively. We are definitely impressed by this resort and we will come back!How to get there:

Garuda and several other domestic airlines fly to Manado from Jakarta daily. The flight usually takes about 3.5 hours with one stopover. There are also daily flights from Denpasar. Silk Air fly from Singapore several days a week (check their website). From Manado airport it takes about 1 to 1.5 hours of drive to Lembeh. Better ask the resort/dive centre to arrange for transport.

Photos & Text by Nila Murti

13 November 2008 04:55:19
Lynne Holmes

9u287xyspfci7iy6
11 December 2008 15:46:45
exvortex

Cool…
26 August 2009 14:06:18
Fammy

It’s amazing and beautiful creature. Who knows there is a wonderful creature deep down on the sea.

It’s very lovely..
31 August 2009 16:02:04
mutiara sari

it’s beautifuuuuuuul……………
22 October 2009 22:17:52
ninajame

once i went to bunaken, i really wanted to try Lembeh…
and i didnt make it..
and i am sure there’re more unique creature there..
thx for the info..^^
10 February 2010 22:16:28
andra

its amazing….

beautifull i like it
i love sea
30 April 2011 10:03:17
Audrey Amateur

Make hay while sun shines.
4 October 2011 07:20:58
clomid4woman

[b]clomid 50mg in australia where to buy[/b] clomid vs letrozole

[url=http://buyclomidonline.jimdo.com]buy clomid 50mg in australia online without prescription with american express[/url] – buying clomid

The antibody-positive women had normal levels of thyroid hormones. Cocoa may – at least temporarily – reverse smoking-related impairments of blood vessel function. Glipizide and clomid success Clomid missed period not pregnant! What Day Should Ovulate Taking Clomid : Clomid intercourse schedule cycle? Birmingham where he will address more than 200 managers and commissioners of services from around the country. Clomid Insemination Ovulation Induction – Clomid Use To Get Pregnant. Clomid regimen, Clomid and insurance Clomid prevent ovulation taking Taking clomid to make a website, cheapest bulk clomid. Pcos clomid twins. Now researchers at The University of Manchester say they have found a reliable new way of attaching active proteins to a chip. Natural Clomid Luteal Phase, Clomid double dose pelvic pain – buy clomid online now The luteal phase or secretory phase is said to happen between days 15 and 26. This is the body s preparatory phase for the uterus acceptance of a fertilized egg. Progesterone is produced while the egg spends its time multiplying in anticipation of a healthy sperm to fertilize the egg. This phase is vital to maintaining a pregnancy should a healthy sperm fertilize an egg.
[b]buy clomid 50mg in australia on line[/b] [i]maximum number of cycles ffor clomid[/i]
3 July 2012 16:17:40
riple

fatallisto.com [url=http://fatallisto.com/]fatallisto.com[/url]
5 September 2013 15:37:12
eating habits healthy

Thanks , I have recently been searching for information about this subject for
a long time and yours is the best I have came upon till now.
But, what concerning the conclusion? Are you sure
concerning the source?
24 December 2017 04:35:15
FirstTerese

I have noticed you don’t monetize your website, don’t waste your traffic,
you can earn additional cash every month because you’ve got hi quality content.
If you want to know how to make extra bucks, search for: Boorfe’s tips best adsense alternative
17 August 2018 10:53:42
BestRefugio

I have noticed you don’t monetize your site, don’t waste your traffic,
you can earn additional cash every month. You can use the best adsense alternative for any type of website (they approve all
websites), for more details simply search in gooogle:
boorfe’s tips monetize your website
19 August 2018 20:04:38
BestJanie

I have noticed you don’t monetize your page, don’t waste your
traffic, you can earn extra cash every month.
You can use the best adsense alternative for any type of website (they approve all websites), for more info simply search in gooogle: boorfe’s tips monetize
your website
7 December 2022 11:58:02
jordan 1 mid

I wanted to compose a brief word in order to express gratitude to you for some of the precious techniques you are giving on this site. My prolonged internet search has at the end of the day been honored with reliable facts to share with my partners. I ‘d admit that most of us site visitors are undeniably endowed to dwell in a good site with very many brilliant people with insightful pointers. I feel very much privileged to have used the web pages and look forward to so many more pleasurable moments reading here. Thanks a lot once more for a lot of things.
7 December 2022 11:58:39
air jordan

I’m writing to make you know of the incredible discovery my wife’s daughter found using yuor web blog. She discovered several details, which included what it’s like to have an incredible giving mood to make many people without hassle know certain complex subject areas. You really surpassed visitors’ expected results. Many thanks for producing these important, healthy, revealing not to mention fun tips about this topic to Sandra.
8 December 2022 17:13:54
Lymnessen

and Blin Perrin, C viagra dosage for ed
8 December 2022 19:02:51
supreme clothing

I must voice my affection for your kindness supporting persons that actually need help on this one theme. Your personal commitment to getting the solution throughout ended up being definitely productive and have specifically encouraged ladies much like me to arrive at their endeavors. Your warm and friendly key points denotes a whole lot to me and further more to my office colleagues. Thanks a lot; from all of us.
8 December 2022 19:03:31
off white

Thank you so much for giving everyone an exceptionally superb opportunity to read from here. It’s always so brilliant and packed with fun for me and my office mates to search your website at least thrice per week to see the fresh issues you have. And definitely, I am usually impressed with the impressive strategies you serve. Selected 3 points on this page are essentially the very best we have all had.
8 December 2022 19:04:09
supreme shirt

I have to show some thanks to this writer for bailing me out of such a difficulty. Right after scouting through the world wide web and getting solutions that were not helpful, I assumed my life was gone. Existing without the presence of strategies to the issues you’ve solved through your good post is a serious case, as well as ones that would have badly affected my career if I hadn’t encountered the website. Your personal skills and kindness in playing with all the things was tremendous. I don’t know what I would’ve done if I hadn’t come upon such a step like this. I can at this moment look ahead to my future. Thanks for your time so much for your expert and result oriented help. I won’t be reluctant to refer your web page to any individual who wants and needs care about this issue.
8 December 2022 19:04:27
kyrie 7

I just wanted to develop a quick comment so as to thank you for those great ideas you are sharing here. My time intensive internet research has now been paid with extremely good content to write about with my classmates and friends. I would state that that many of us readers actually are undeniably lucky to live in a wonderful network with so many outstanding people with valuable pointers. I feel pretty fortunate to have encountered the web site and look forward to tons of more thrilling minutes reading here. Thanks a lot again for everything.
9 December 2022 11:20:01
Lymnessen

PubMed 17211015 what is nolvadex Fatty acid uptake and lipid storage induced by HIF 1alpha contribute to cell growth and survival after hypoxia reoxygenation
9 December 2022 19:58:31
crirebese

п»їstromectol This more enhanced binding affinity of the described derivatives is advantageously employed in a diagnostic test to identify and treat estrogen receptor positive hormone dependent breast tumors i
10 December 2022 03:37:40
fear of god outlet

I precisely wished to thank you very much yet again. I am not sure what I would have taken care of without the entire recommendations contributed by you regarding such a area of interest. This has been the alarming setting in my position, however , spending time with the well-written mode you dealt with it made me to jump for happiness. I’m just grateful for your information and then hope that you really know what a great job that you are putting in educating the others all through a site. Probably you have never met all of us.
10 December 2022 03:38:15
Golden Goose Deluxe Brand

I have to show some appreciation to you just for bailing me out of such a dilemma. After looking out throughout the world-wide-web and obtaining recommendations which are not productive, I figured my life was done. Existing devoid of the solutions to the difficulties you have resolved by way of the report is a crucial case, and the ones which could have in a wrong way damaged my entire career if I had not noticed the website. Your primary understanding and kindness in touching all the stuff was useful. I’m not sure what I would have done if I hadn’t come upon such a solution like this. I’m able to at this time relish my future. Thank you very much for your expert and results-oriented help. I won’t think twice to suggest your blog post to any person who needs to have assistance on this topic.
10 December 2022 20:16:22
Ricameerm

purchasing cialis online The targeted antibodies in Brillia reduce these symptoms by attaching to the S100B protein and modifying it so that it is unable to bind to this target and unlock these undesirable symptoms
11 December 2022 08:53:22
golden goose shoes

I want to express appreciation to you for bailing me out of such a crisis. Because of looking out through the search engines and obtaining basics that were not helpful, I believed my entire life was well over. Being alive without the answers to the problems you’ve resolved all through your site is a serious case, and those which may have badly damaged my career if I hadn’t come across your blog post. Your own personal expertise and kindness in taking care of a lot of stuff was tremendous. I’m not sure what I would have done if I hadn’t encountered such a subject like this. I’m able to at this time look ahead to my future. Thanks so much for your high quality and amazing help. I won’t be reluctant to suggest your web site to anybody who would need tips about this situation.
11 December 2022 08:53:58
off white hoodie

I simply needed to appreciate you once more. I am not sure the things that I could possibly have implemented without those solutions documented by you about that area of interest. This has been a very terrifying crisis for me personally, however , discovering the very specialised style you resolved the issue forced me to cry with contentment. Now i’m happy for the work and as well , wish you recognize what a powerful job you’re providing training many people thru your blog. Most probably you’ve never met any of us.
12 December 2022 14:20:55
kd shoes

My spouse and i ended up being so glad when Michael managed to do his inquiry with the precious recommendations he acquired out of your web pages. It is now and again perplexing to just find yourself handing out points some others may have been trying to sell. We really recognize we’ve got the blog owner to thank for this. The type of illustrations you have made, the straightforward site navigation, the relationships your site help to engender – it’s got many amazing, and it’s letting our son in addition to the family imagine that the idea is amusing, which is certainly unbelievably mandatory. Many thanks for the whole thing!
12 December 2022 14:21:32
jordans shoes

I want to express my appreciation to you just for bailing me out of this type of circumstance. Just after searching through the the web and getting tricks that were not beneficial, I figured my life was over. Being alive without the presence of strategies to the difficulties you have fixed as a result of your entire website is a critical case, as well as those which may have negatively affected my entire career if I hadn’t come across the blog. Your actual expertise and kindness in dealing with every part was very helpful. I don’t know what I would have done if I hadn’t come across such a step like this. I can also now look ahead to my future. Thanks a lot so much for the high quality and result oriented guide. I will not think twice to endorse your blog post to anybody who should receive counselling on this area.
12 December 2022 17:56:13
Drorgib

The goal is to improve your quality of life as much as possible finasteride 1 mg no prescription needed
13 December 2022 02:28:32
dandDeeta

tamoxifen interactions It won over the New Yorker and made ObamaCare designer Peter Orszag a celebrity
13 December 2022 18:59:06
off white clothing

I and my buddies were analyzing the nice thoughts from your website and then the sudden developed a terrible suspicion I never thanked the website owner for those strategies. All of the people came for this reason excited to read them and now have extremely been making the most of these things. Appreciation for indeed being very thoughtful and also for figuring out these kinds of beneficial areas millions of individuals are really wanting to be informed on. Our own honest regret for not saying thanks to you earlier.
13 December 2022 18:59:42
jordan shoes

I precisely desired to say thanks once again. I am not sure the things that I could possibly have worked on in the absence of the entire pointers documented by you over such concern. Entirely was the troublesome scenario in my view, nevertheless finding out a professional tactic you solved the issue took me to jump for delight. Extremely happier for the assistance as well as believe you comprehend what an amazing job you have been doing teaching the mediocre ones through your web blog. Most probably you haven’t got to know any of us.
14 December 2022 06:23:15
dandDeeta

or its products clomid side effects in women PMID 18047501 Clinical Trial
15 December 2022 00:54:31
off white hoodie

Needed to compose you the very little observation to say thanks a lot over again with your precious ideas you’ve contributed here. It’s so pretty open-handed of you to present freely what exactly most of us might have advertised as an electronic book to generate some profit for themselves, primarily now that you might well have tried it if you wanted. Those smart ideas in addition worked to become a fantastic way to fully grasp other people online have similar fervor like mine to know whole lot more on the subject of this problem. I know there are thousands of more enjoyable instances up front for people who check out your blog.
15 December 2022 00:55:07
curry 8

Thank you so much for giving everyone remarkably terrific opportunity to check tips from this site. It is often very pleasurable and full of fun for me personally and my office friends to visit your web site minimum 3 times in one week to read the latest items you have. And definitely, I am at all times astounded with all the magnificent strategies you give. Certain 3 facts in this posting are particularly the most efficient we have all ever had.
15 December 2022 11:34:51
crirebese

If patients develop a pulmonary embolism PE, doctors must timely treat the DVT by the recommending the following treatment clomid side effects in women
16 December 2022 02:52:02
Ricameerm

The experiments presented here tested the hypotheses that 1 chronic loop diuretic administration increases NCC activity at least in part by increasing the abundance of the transport protein and 2 circulating aldosterone contributes importantly to this effect ivermectin dosage for scabies Long term erythromycin therapy is associated with decreased chronic obstructive pulmonary disease exacerbations
16 December 2022 05:50:31
yeezy 350

I intended to write you this bit of word in order to give thanks again on the striking views you’ve contributed on this site. It is remarkably generous with you to deliver freely all many people could possibly have offered for sale as an electronic book in making some money for themselves, notably considering that you could have done it in case you decided. Those tricks in addition served like a great way to fully grasp most people have the identical keenness just as mine to learn way more on the subject of this matter. I am sure there are numerous more pleasurable occasions ahead for folks who read your blog post.
16 December 2022 05:51:08
air jordan

I am only commenting to make you understand what a wonderful experience my daughter enjoyed going through your webblog. She discovered too many details, not to mention what it is like to have an incredible teaching heart to let others with no trouble master several complicated issues. You truly did more than our expected results. I appreciate you for imparting such interesting, safe, revealing as well as fun tips on this topic to Kate.
16 December 2022 07:39:14
Drorgib

want to buy priligy in pakistan If you have a minor bacterial infection, ask your physician if an antibiotic is really needed and if a natural alternative might do the trick
17 December 2022 11:06:22
jordan outlet

I am also writing to make you understand what a superb discovery our girl had reading your site. She realized a lot of details, which include what it’s like to have an incredible coaching spirit to get the others completely grasp selected complicated issues. You really did more than my expected results. Thank you for providing these important, trustworthy, explanatory and as well as easy tips about that topic to Julie.
17 December 2022 11:06:45
kd shoes

I really wanted to send a small message to express gratitude to you for those marvelous tips and hints you are writing at this site. My particularly long internet investigation has at the end been paid with incredibly good concept to exchange with my close friends. I ‘d claim that we website visitors actually are unquestionably fortunate to exist in a superb place with very many brilliant professionals with good tactics. I feel quite privileged to have come across the web page and look forward to some more entertaining moments reading here. Thanks a lot again for a lot of things.
17 December 2022 11:07:09
supreme outlet

My husband and i got very more than happy when Peter could deal with his inquiry while using the ideas he gained from your web pages. It’s not at all simplistic to just find yourself giving freely thoughts many others could have been selling. So we fully grasp we have the website owner to be grateful to for this. The illustrations you made, the simple site menu, the friendships you can help to foster – it is everything overwhelming, and it is letting our son and the family believe that the matter is thrilling, and that is tremendously pressing. Many thanks for all the pieces!
18 December 2022 17:05:08
goyard bag

I in addition to my buddies came analyzing the excellent hints from your web blog and immediately came up with a horrible feeling I never thanked the web blog owner for those tips. All of the young boys were definitely absolutely warmed to learn all of them and have now truly been making the most of those things. Many thanks for actually being quite helpful and for pick out this sort of smart subject areas most people are really needing to be aware of. My personal sincere regret for not expressing gratitude to you earlier.
18 December 2022 17:05:45
jordan shoes

I am only writing to make you know of the exceptional encounter my cousin’s child gained studying your site. She realized a wide variety of pieces, which included what it’s like to have a great helping heart to have others effortlessly comprehend specified grueling topics. You really did more than readers’ expected results. Thanks for imparting such priceless, dependable, educational and also unique thoughts on that topic to Sandra.
18 December 2022 17:06:14
jordan shoes

I would like to convey my respect for your generosity for individuals that must have guidance on in this content. Your very own dedication to getting the message across became unbelievably helpful and has always empowered people like me to arrive at their ambitions. This valuable useful information implies a great deal to me and still more to my office workers. With thanks; from each one of us.
20 December 2022 00:26:30
kyrie 6 shoes

I really wanted to jot down a quick note to be able to thank you for the magnificent recommendations you are showing at this site. My rather long internet look up has at the end of the day been recognized with useful facts and strategies to talk about with my two friends. I ‘d believe that many of us readers actually are truly lucky to live in a fine community with so many lovely professionals with valuable tips and hints. I feel really happy to have seen the web pages and look forward to really more entertaining minutes reading here. Thanks once more for everything.
20 December 2022 00:27:07
jordan 11

I needed to create you one little word just to give many thanks as before regarding the stunning techniques you have discussed in this case. It was so unbelievably generous with people like you to give unreservedly just what a few individuals could possibly have advertised as an e-book to generate some money on their own, most importantly given that you might have done it in case you considered necessary. The tips in addition served as a good way to know that most people have similar dreams the same as my very own to learn whole lot more regarding this matter. I believe there are several more enjoyable moments ahead for individuals who looked at your blog.
21 December 2022 05:17:10
kd shoes

I really wanted to make a small remark in order to express gratitude to you for the magnificent guidelines you are posting here. My time-consuming internet investigation has at the end of the day been paid with reliable know-how to go over with my family. I would mention that many of us site visitors are really lucky to dwell in a very good network with so many special professionals with good hints. I feel rather blessed to have discovered the webpages and look forward to many more fun times reading here. Thanks a lot once more for everything.