Kapal MV Temukira melaju dengan gagahnya keluar dari pelabuhan Maumere, Flores menuju laut lepas. Udara panas dan terik membuat badan cepat terasa haus. Sementara di kejauhan awan bergulung gulung kelabu. Akankah hujan, begitu kami bertanya tanya. Sambil berjalan Chris, dive master kami memperkenalkan satu persatu seluruh awak kabin dan regulasi selama pelayaran ini. Liveaboard menuju Pulau Alor.
Sesuatu yang kami idam idamkan sejak lama. Saya, Mira, Ita, Barito, Kiki, John, Henry, Eva, Sessy, Sani , Andi dan Oci mulai membongkar bongkar perbekalan sambil memilih kamar masing masing.
Perjalanan ini menempuh jarak semalam, dengan ombak yang sedikit kencang di Laut Flores. Kapal mengalun ke kiri dan kanan, serta sesekali menghujam mengikuti irama laut. Angin malam itu memang terasa kencang dengan hujan rintik rintik. Kami melewati pulau Adonara dan saya mengeluarkan dari 4 koper pelican, berisi kamera Video Panasonic DVX 100A dengan Housingnya, serta kamera DSLR Nikon D 200 dan Housing ikelite. Ini memang perlengkapan yang harus ditebus dengan overweight kelebihan bagasi sebesar Rp 700,000,- dari Jakarta. Sesekali saya mencoba mengetes lampu strobe flash, dengan disaksikan Henry, yang bertanya ini itu tentang underwater photography.
Sementara di sisi lainnya, makan malam dengan menu spaghetti, sayur kol dan broccoli, ayam goreng, serta tumis tahu mengundang perut perut yang kelaparan sejak siang tadi.
Malam ini memang terlalu meletihkan setelah perjalanan hampir seharian dari Jakarta pagi pagi buta. Mencoba tidur adalah pilihan terbaik.
Jam 5.30 saya sudah terbangun dan bergegas naik ke geladak buritan. Indahnya semburat merah matahari pagi di ujung timur. Mengagetkan, Mira ternyata sudah lebih dulu bangun dan melakukan meditasi. Kesunyian yang hampir mustahil ditemui di Jakarta.
Hari ini sesuai jadwal kami akan melakukan check out dive di Ite Lape lalu di sekitar Pulau Lapan. Tidak terlalu bagus, bahkan sangat menyedihkan melihat terumbu karang yang hancur karena pemboman dan sianiada.
Tak ada yang istimewa hari ini, karena masih belum sampai ke daerah Alor. Kami harus menempuh semalam lagi untuk menyeberangi Pulau Pantar sebelum memasuki kawasan Alor esok paginya.
Matahari sangat terik, menyambut pagi ini. Sarapan supermie dan telor rebus sudah cukup untuk memulai petualangan hari ini. Walau koki kapal sudah menyiapkan toast roti bakar dan nasi gorang.
Shark Galore. Sebuah nama yang sebenarnya menunjukan tempat banyak ditemui hiu. Namun tak satupun hiu tampak berkeliaran. Padahal kami sudah menyiapkan pengait , yang semalam telah dibuat simpulnya oleh Oci. Entah dia bekas pramuka , ternyata ia memang pintar membuat simpul hook – pengait – yang akan menjaga badan kami tidak terbawa arus yang memang kencang diseputaran site ini.
Pemandangan khas bawah laut Alor mulai tampak disini. Perangkap bubu rotan untuk menjerat ikan. Sebuah cara penangkapan tradisional yang unik dan disatu pihak menjaga ekosistem terumbu karang. Bubu ini diletakan di kedalam 5 sampai 15 meter. Secara berkala penyelam penyelam alam Alor – dengan kaca mata kayunya – akan turun ke dalam laut untuk mengecek hasil tangkapannya.
Hari ini kami juga menuju Crocodile Rock. Visibility memang menakjubkan , hampir 30 – 40 meter jarak pandang. Secara keseluruhan Alor memang terkenal dengan arus kencangnya. Memang berat dan melelahkan, tapi itu sekaligus tempat ikan. Ada pepatah No Current No Life. Saya tak pernah berhenti memotret atau mendokumentasikan video bawah air ini. Saya harus meminta bantuan dive guide untuk membawakan kamera video, karena saya membawa kamera DSLR. Secara bergantian kami saling mengoper housing. Sesekali juga Mira atau Budi menjadi spotter menunjukan obyek obyek Macro menarik seperti Frog Fish atau nudibranch.
Sambil merapat di sebuah teluk untuk tempat kapal bersandar bermalam. Kami melakukan night dive. Eel Mooray, Goby, Spanish Dancer dan gurita menjadi tamu kami malam ini. Tak berapa lama kami bergegas kembali ke kapal. Makan malam yang nikmat sudah menanti.
Pagi esok, kapal sudah bergerak menuju Kal Dream. Arus kali ini cukup kencang. Kami melihat sekumpulan ikan ikan seperti trigger fish, unicorns and surgeons dan beberapa snapper berukuran 50 – 70 cm. Tak lupa eye- catching imperial angel fish.
Arus berkekuatan 2 knots agak merepotkan. Terlebih jika anda membawa Housing berisi kamera Panasonic DVX 100 A serta baterei lampu seberat 8 kg terkait di tabung penyelaman. Jika diperhatikan begitu banyak softcoral – invertebrata – membuat dilemma ketika tangan kita menahan di batu koral. Sebuah pilihan sulit ketika dihadang arus keras.
Kami melakukan drift dive ketika oksigen menipis sekaligus melakukan decompression stop. Melegakan rubber boat sudah menunggu kami.
Sebuah temat yang dinamakan Board Rooam – banyak ikan ikan. Bagai akuarium raksasa. Menyenangkan sekali melihat grouper dan beberapa jenis lainnya. Saya mencoba beberapa angle untuk mendapatkan gambar Baracuda yang melintas.
Kontur yang hampir sama di Mini Wall. Kita memasuki dari sebuah pantai dan hampir seluruh permukaan komtur ditutupi crinoid sepanang 50 meter, dan terlihat sebuah ‘ wall ‘ kecil, dekat Kalabahi. Soft Corals, sponges dan invertebrates memenuhi dinding wall dengan kedalama hanya 10 meter mungkin.
Di pelabuhan Kalabahi kami merapat dan saya, Sani, Barito, Mbak Ita, Ochi, Henry, Andi memutuskan menuju Takpala, sebuah perkampungan tradisional pulau Alor. Dengan mencarter sebuah angkot, kami menempuh 30 menit perjalanan menuju dataran tinggi. Disana masih ditemui bentuk kehidupan tradisional masyarakat Alor dalam rumah rumah adat yang terjaga apik.
Dari atas kami bisa menyaksikan teluk yang indah. Sebuah perjalanan yang tidak sia sia.
Tak terasa hari semakin berlalu. Kami menyempatkan dive di Coconut Groove dan Cave Point, sebelum kapal kembali ke Teluk Maumere. Dive trip ini sangat berkesan. Bertemu teman teman baru dan melihat sebuah sudut negeri yang kadang terabaikan.
Sayup sayup suara pedagang kain tenun mengagetkan saya. Iring iringan perahu kecil dari daratan pulau, menawarkan tenun alor yang terkenal. Sore ini angin begitu lembut.
Dunia Laut berisi kumpulan cerita dan foto-foto tentang kekayaan alam hayati lautan Indonesia.
Blog ini dikelola oleh Iman Brotoseno, PADI Dive Instructor.
© Dunia Laut. Design by Muhammad Zamroni.
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