Indiana Jones dari Raja Ampat

29 November 2009 Dive Site 121

Lebih sepuluh tahun yang lalu, Max Ammer datang dari sebuah negeri di Eropa di tepi Laut Utara yang dingin. Pria kelahiran Belanda , seorang petualang , sejarawan dan pemburu benda benda peninggalan PD II, menuju Kepulauan Raja Ampat untuk mencari rongsokan jip, pesawat terbang di sepanjang kepala burung, Papua. Bagaikan Indiana Jones tak bertopi, ia berkelana dari satu titik ke titik yang lain. Tidak banyak rongsokan tersisa. Justru ia menemukan terumbu karang – kekayaan hayati – surga bawah laut Raja Ampat.

Max kemudian mengembangkan sebuah resor dengan orientasi konservasi di Pulau Kri. Pulau ini sekitarnya berada di pusat Raja Ampat, ditempuh 2 – 3 jam dengan boat dari kota Sorong melalui Selat Dampier. Kita bisa melihat karang karang dengan gua gua terhampar di sepanjang perjalanan. Sebuah tempat perlindungan yang digunakan tentara Jepang pada masa PD II.
Arus Selat Dampier membawa kita menuju Pulau Kri dengan 2 tempat, yakni Sorido Bay Resort dan Kri Eco Resort terletak pada sisi lain pulau ini.

Bagi saya , Kri Eco resort selain lebih murah daripada Sorido Bay yang ditujukan untuk mereka berkantong tebal. Juga menawarkan arti sebuah petualangan bahari sesungguhnya. Bagaikan suku suku bajo tinggal diatas laut.
Rumah kayu beratap daun daun, cukup luxurius dengan tambahan kelambu di ranjangnya. Melindungi dari serangan nyamuk yang sebenarnya tak terlalu banyak. Ketika malam tiba, kita bisa memandang langit yang penuh dengan bintang bintang serta dibuai angin laut yang bertiup.
Raja Ampat berada pada berada di persimpangan jalan di mana arus samudera Pasifik dan Samudra Hindia bertemu. Tak heran kawasn ini kaya dengan nutrisi yang dibutuhkan ikan ikan. Arus besar ini menyapu nutrisi ke seluruh kepulauan – ada kurang lebih 1500 pulau – yang kaya dengan habitat. Ada dilindungi dalam teluk, tersembunyi laguna, pasir flat, dan hutan bawah lautnya.
Melihat nelayan papua, memancing ikan dengan mudahnya hanya selemparan batu dari tempat kita berdiri di dekat dermaga Pulau Kri.

Anda tak akan bisa menghabiskan seluruh area penyelaman di Raja Ampat hanya dari Pulau Kri. Kepulauan ini terlalu luas untuk dijelajahi dengan speed boat. Eksplorasi dengan liveaboard bisa menjadi opsi lain, ketika menuju pulau pulau lain atau kawasan Misool di selatan.
Max Ammer sepertinya melupakan hiruk pikuk kota besar di Belanda. Dengan bercelana jeans, ia sibuk mengawasai pekerja pekerja nya membenahi rumah rumah yang rusak. Ia juga memperbaiki mesin boat yang rusak serta menemani para tamu makan pagi di rumah dapur yang merangkap tempat makan bagi seluruh tamu dan pegawai resor.

Saya hanya seminggu di sini, di tempat yang tak bisa dijangkau dengan sambungan telpon seluler. Butuh telpon satelit yang disediakan di Sorido Bay. Tapi memang tak penting. Siapa yang butuh gangguan dari peradaban jika sesungguhnya telah berada dalam ‘ peradaban ‘ yang istimewa ?
Menjelang hari terakhir, Max Ammer memberi tahu, jika saya ingin melihat burung Cendrawasih. Perjalanan ini harus dilakukan pagi pagi buta, dengan speed boat menuju Pulau Gam, dimana kita meneruskan menembus hutan dan menunggu sekitar jam 7 pagi saat burung burung surgawi itu datang memamerkan bulu bulunya kepada pasangannya.

Melihat senja yang bertaburkan warna warni pendar cahaya, adalah sesuatu yang biasa dilihat di pulau Kri. Esok pagi, si Indiana Jones akan mengantar kami kembali ke Sorong untuk meneruskan penerbangan ke Jakarta.
Tiba tiba saya merasa perjalanan liburan saya terlalu cepat di sini.

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