Pagi itu, matahari belum sepenuhnya bertengger tinggi ketika saya dan buddy dive saya Esther sudah muncul di pelabuhan Marina Ancol. Sambil menunggu peralatan dimasukan ke dalam kapal, saya menyempatkan menyeruput segelas teh manis panas di warung pojok tepi dermaga, sekaligus menunggu Adek, seorang penyelam guide yang menjadi perantara perjalanan saya kali ini. Sudah sejak lama saya tertarik untuk mempunyai dokumentasi photo aktivitas para penangkap ikan illegal di kepulauan seribu, Jakarta.
Mereka kerap kali di sebut nelayan kompresor dan nelayan potas, karena dalam kegiatannya mencari ikan mereka memakai kompresor udara sebagai alat bantu pernafasan serta racun potas. Menemukan mereka tidaklah sulit, dalam setiap perjalanan menyelam di kepulauan Seribu, kita sering berpapasan dengan kapal kapal mereka, yang ditandai dengan banyaknya selang selang berseliweran keluar dari sebuah kapal menuju dalam laut. Hanya saja mereka cenderung tertutup dan tidak mau lokasi penangkapan ikan mereka di dekati, mungkin karena kegiatan mereka sebenarnya cenderung merupakan metode penangkapan illegal, sehingga sangat sensitive terhadap orang orang asing.
Melalui Adek, yang pernah tinggal dan besar di kepulauan seribu, saya akhirnya bisa mendapatkan kontak dengan Bapak Udin, seorang nelayan yang tinggal di Pulau Pramuka, untuk bisa mengantarkan saya kepada komunitas nelayan penangkap ikan ini. Setelah disepakati harinya, karena ada hari hari seperti hari Jumβat dan hari tertentu yang menurut kepercayaan mereka bukan hari baik untuk melaut, Pak Udin akan menemui saya di pulau Kotok pada jam 10 pagi.
Perjalanan menuju Pulau Kotok Besar sangat cepat karena permukaan air laut yang cenderung flat dan tidak bergelombang. Sesekali kapal boat berkekuatan 3 mesin , masing masing 150PK harus berhenti karena baling balingnya tersangkut sampah yang sangat banyak berceceran di laut lepas. Sungguh memprihatinkan nasib laut di halaman muka ibu kota republik ini.
Akhirnya kapal boat Kul Kul merapat di dermaga Kotok setelah menempuh waktu satu setengah jam. Ternyata Pak Udin sudah lama menunggu dengan sebuah kapal kecilnya bersandar di pojok dermaga. Setelah menyiapkan tabung tabung penyelaman dan peralatan photography, kami bergegas naik ke atas kapal jukung berkekuatan mesin 45 PK untuk menuju ke luar area Pulau Semak Daun sebagai titik pertemuan kami dengan nelayan kompresor.
Setelah menempuh perjalanan selama 45 menit, di kejauhan sudah terlihat sebuah kapal nelayan kompresor, yang ditandai dengan banyaknya orang berkerumun di atas dek kapal. Hati saya menjadi lega, karena terus terang selama perjalanan dari pelabuhan Marina Ancol, saya agak was was kalau mereka tiba tiba tidak muncul pada hari yang dijanjikan.
Ternyata mereka baru saja istirahat setelah menyelesaikan sortie penangkapan ikan. Saya meminta Pak Udin untuk merapatkan kapal jukung ke badan kapal sehingga saya bisa melompat naik. Wajah wajah keras penghuni kapal, nelayan nelayan kepulauan seribu menyambut saya dengan dingin dan penuh curiga. Hati saya agak ciut, mengingat mereka pasti sangat berhati hati menerima orang asing di atas kapalnya. Setelah basa basi sebentar, dan saya yakin bahwa Pak Udin telah menjelaskan kepada mereka sebelumnya,bahwa kami bukanlah wartawan atau petugas aparat, maka saya berusaha membuat suasana menjadi akrab.
Kapal berukuran 3 x 10 meter itu tampak penuh sesak dijejali dengan manusia manusia, sebagian duduk berkerumun diatas kap kapal, dan sebagian lagi berkerumun di haluan. Area buritan didisain sedemikan rupa untuk meletakan mesin kompresor angin, yang bunyi suaranya sangat memekakan telinga. Di pojok belakang buritan, salah seorang nelayan sedang menyiapkan makan siang. Sebuah kuali baja hitam berisi air dan ikan ikan yang sudah dipotong potong, tampak diatas sebuah kompor gas yang menyala. Ia lalu mengupas bawang putih sambil menumbuknya bersama bumbu bumbu lain diatas sebuah cobek batu,lalu memasukannya begitu saja ke dalam kuali sambil mengaduk ngaduk.
Disinilah ketegangan mencair. Sambil makan siang bersama β saya baru menyadari begitu nikmatnya makan nasi keras dan gulai ikan β kita ngobrol dan membuat hubungan lebih akrab. Akhirnya mereka mengijinkan saya untuk mengikuti kegiatan mereka hari itu.
Metode penyelaman mereka benar benar menyalahi aturan. Mereka hanya bermodal selang dari kompresor besar yang mengalirkan udara. Bayangkan kompresor pengisi angin tambal ban saja. Ini mengalirkan udara yang tidak jelas komposisinya. Padahal kalau kita para penyelam mengetahui bahwa tabung udara yang kita hirup tidak murni oksigen. Terdiri dari 21 % oksigen dan 79 % nitrogen.
Sementara dengan udara β tambal ban β ini,membuat tenggorokan penyelam nelayan tersebut panas dan perih. Sehingga setelah menyelam mereka meminum susu dan kopi, untuk menetralisir pengaruh tidak enak di tenggorokannya.
Mereka hanya memakai pemberat, masker, selang dan boot. Karena mereka berjalan di bawah laut sambil merentangkan jaring jaring yang akan menangkap ikan ikan. Pertama tama beberapa orang menyelam sambil menyemprotkan potas β sianida β dalam botol aqua. Ini akan membuat ikan ikan pingsan dan tak berdaya ketika ditangkap.
Setelah itu satu persatu penyelam masuk ke dalam air, merentangkan jaring, sambil kapal berjalan memutari target sasaran. Begitu mereka naik ke kapal. Penyelam lainnya masuk ke dalam air lagi bergantian untuk menggiring jaring untuk mengunci ikan ikan yang terperangkap.
Ada sebuah aturan, bagi para penyelam untuk melakukan surface interfal sehabis menyelam. Karena dengan menyelam ada nitrogen yang terserap ke dalam tubuh kita. Nitrogen ini harus dilepaskan dulu sebelum kita menyelam lagi. Membutuhkan waktu beberapa lama di permukaan. Konsekuensinya bahkan bisa mengakibatkan kematian atau kelumpuhan.
Tak heran, di sekitar pulau seribu banyak ditemukan nelayan nelayan yang lumpuh. Ini akibat dari kebiasaan mereka menyelam β naik turun β sesukanya ketika menangkap ikan.
Ini sama yang dilakukan oleh para penyelam penangkap ikan hias. Ikan ikan hias yang djual di Jalan Sumenep atau menjadi hiasan aquarium. Mereka menyelam disekitar terumbu karang mencari cari ikan hias diantara anemone. Potas dalam botol aqua mereka semprotakan di anomone dan dibalik karang karang.
Tak berapa lama mereka kembali menyelam, dan tinggal memunguti ikan ikan hias yang pingsan.
Padahal menurut resensi ilmiah yang saya baca, setiap penyemprotan potas akan mematikan area terumbu karang seluas 4 x 4 meter. Bisa dibayakangkan, lama kelamaan terumbu karang di Kepulauan Seribu akan habis. Mati dan kering. Tak ada ikan lagi, karena ikan ikan memntuhkan terumbu karang sebagai rumah dan habitatnya.
Ini tak bisa dianggap remeh. Para nelayan mengakui sekarang mereka harus melaut jauh hampir ke utara di luar area kepulauan seribu, karena ikan ikan yang mulai langka ditemui di dalam kepulauan Seribu sendiri.
Memang Dinas Perikanan Kepulauan Seribu sudah mensosialisasikan bagaimana kerusakan ekosistem ini dengan mulai mengajarkan budidaya ikan hias. Ini memerlukan kerja keras , sekaligus pengabdian yang konsisten.
Kecilnya anggaran dan juga minimnya patroli pengawasan membuat pelanggaran pelanggaran ini selalu mudah ditemui. Pola kerja mereka mencari ikan yang sudah dilakukan beberapa generasi tak mudah begitu saja diubah. Selalu ada pergesekan.
Hari makin sore, saya memutuskan kembali ke sebuah pulau kecil tempat seorang penangkap ikan hias sedang mencari cari ikan disana. Tak mungkin saya melarangnya. Ini masalah hidup mati mereka mencari nafkah bagi keluarganya. Saya hanya membeli ikan ikan hias yang mereka tangkap.
Ikan itu saya bawa ke Pulau Kotok dan dilepas di pinggir dermaga. Mereka bergerak gerak, setelah sadar – =racun potasnya hilang β lalu berenang cepat ke bawah koral terumbu karang.
Mungkin ini hanya sementara. Sampai suatu hari kelak ia tertangkap lagi oleh penyelam potas.
Dunia Laut berisi kumpulan cerita dan foto-foto tentang kekayaan alam hayati lautan Indonesia.
Blog ini dikelola oleh Iman Brotoseno, PADI Dive Instructor.
© Dunia Laut. Design by Muhammad Zamroni.
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